Mini Cooper S R56 - engine woes - brrperformance.com

SERVICE Alert

If you own, or know someone who owns a MINI Cooper S (R56) car, from 2006.5 to 2011, read on with great interest or concern.

With the push to get more new cars produced, broaden the product line, the life cycle has gotten shorter and shorter, and manufacturers have also taken other steps to outsource some major parts of the car to help in the rush to get this all done. Add in the change in technology, push for greater gas mileage and more power, hybrids, and there is a certain formula that something along the way may not go according to plan. We have seen this with many of the manufacturers…it doesn’t seem limited to any category or segment. Now enter MINI…and with the introduction of the second version of the second generation MINI, they have fallen in this hole. They outsourced the first MINI motor for the Cooper and Cooper S, and now have taken that same path again with the current version of the MINI, albeit with now a different engine supplier and having moved from a first version Supercharged motor to the current version Turbocharged model.

None of that would be bad….unless something could go wrong. Most of our customers today believe their car should run nearly trouble free, and not have any significant engine issues till the car nears 200k miles. Some of that is forgiven if the car is a specialty or high performance car (read Porsche and Ferrari).

The other concern is when the manufacturer tries to turn their head the other way when an obvious, and recurrent problem pops up. This is what we are seeing w the current model MINI Cooper S, the one with the turbocharged motor. Due to the size of our MINI customer base, we first started to see this issue about 2010, and now are seeing a more steady stream of occurrences. As one would expect, MINI themselves first saw the issue arise, and after a full year of issues, had issued a Technical Service Bulletin….first to its dealers, and then to the public. But, this doesn’t mean the were stating they knew there was a problem, a Service Bulletin is to make service managers and technicians aware of how to test and repair a known issue. That is how MINI positioned it, and continues to do so. Their first Service bulletin even took a more backhanded approach as it communicated the issue to the dealer network.

The issue – as low as 20k miles, and we have seen it mostly around 50k miles, the motor starts to make loud rattle. This noise is louder on cold start up, and is less noisy or may sound like a normal engine sound once the engine is fully warm. The issue is the chain tensioner….and it is not working as designed, and not producing the tension the timing chain needs, and the timing chain hits the outer enclosure and makes the rattle sound. But, that in and of itself wouldn’t be too bad, but what can happen if this is not taken care of is. If the customer doesn’t have this addressed, and this tensioner continues to get worse, and the wear occurs to the timing chain guides as well, the customer could experience complete engine failure (the chain will jump the timing chain gears, timing will get off, motor won’ t run well, valves open at the wrong time, and then really bad things happen as the pistons and valves do direct battle, with the engine losing)…read the motor will break.

There is a known fix to this, and MINI even has a test to determine if the tensioner is producing less than desired tension. Depending on when this issue is identified, and the longevity of the wear period, the extent of the fix can be minor or major. At a minimum, it requires a new timing chain tensioner (not a quick fix, but not out of the ball park in cost either). But, if the wear is greater, then several parts need to be replaced (timing chain, timing chain tensioner, gear, guides (3), and some key bolts).

If your car or someone you know has this, and the car is under warranty, MINI will test the car, and should cover the repair. If you are outside the warranty period, then even though MINI knows of this, the repair will NOT be covered.

The current TSB related to this issue is:

SI M11 02 07
Engine – February 2011
Technical Service

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI M11 02 07 dated October 2010.

So, be aware, listen to your motor, and you may want to have MINI test your car to see that all is OK.? Believe us…this is a REAL ISSUE.

UPDATE – JUNE 2012

I’m updating this post (originally written by us in Dec 2011, but updating now in June 2012….as we are seeing cars at about the rate of one a week w this issue with many NOT having addressed this issue early, and producing other unwanted results…..read….more expensive repairs).

Here are pics of a recent example where the following occurred –

(1) The timing chain tensioner does not provide sufficient tension (you can feel a significant difference in the current motor version versus the new version)

(2) The upper timing chain guide wears through, and then breaks. The picture is of the pieces left after it has broken into multiple pieces. These pieces then fall down into the timing chain galley and do further damage…and in another recent case, got caught in the oil pump chain, and broke and stretched the oil pump chain nearly throwing that chain and causing oil starvation (which would have been the end of the motor).

(3) The side timing chain guides break into pieces, and fall into the oil pan, also requiring additional time and work to repair. The pic below shows how one case, the pieces did get caught in the oil pump chain, stretching it, and almost causing it to be thrown and killing the motor altogether.

NET – if you own, or know someone who owns a 2007 – 2009 MINI, have them get this fixed, even if they think they are FINE.

MORE UPDATES – Feb 2013

Here is a comment from another shop who has read and follows our www, about the MINI issue –

“I work in an engine rebuild center . we are seeing more & more of these MINIs coming in every day now … burning oil & timing chain problems … new one is the top guide is wearing causing metal fillings into engine ” not what you want “. Last one causing Vanos unit (variable camshaft) to cause a fault code 287d to stop working as relies on oil pressure… not the best from BMW/MINI I must say.” …..

Another comment rec’d on March 14, 2013

This just happened to me. 68k on my 2009 S. Was running perfectly, never noticed a rattle or anything, but blam, dead car. It

Bruce Todd2014-10-04T08:44:29-07:00

132 Comments

james regan May 9, 2012 at 12:37 pm

Dear Mini, I purchased a new mini cooper s Camden from your Chelmsford branch on the 19.12.09 for my wife for her Christmas present, she was over the moon.? we notice the engine light came on in march 2010 and immediately contacted mini Chelmsford about the problem and request it taken into the garage for investigation, We were so shocked and surprised at the diagnosis report back from the service department.? The mini had been sent out to Chelmsford Mini with no oil in the engine, and the mini service department had given the vehicle a clean bill? of health before selling this mini on to me. ( obviously no such check had been done by the factory or mini Chelmsford prior to us collecting the car)? We than went on our winter holiday to Tenerife on the 21.12.09 for 7 days. So the car? was not used at all for this period.
?
How could this happen to a new car, ( 01.01.2010? Platinum delivery package ??651.30) On the 26.3.10? I phoned up directly and spoke to the manager of the show room for his personal opinion and was advised on his findings, for the 1st time i heard? that no damage had been done, and the mini would be ok.Not having any oil has not cause any damage to the engine.? I verbally requested that this incident be put on record in the event that any future problem with the engine would not effect my consumer rights or warranty , for which he agreed.? I than regularly checked the oil on a weekly basic, and just assumed this was normal for a mini cooper S to use more oil as advise by mini. Yet in the service book it recommends
?
My wife took charge of the mini again and with in 2 weeks the light came on again, I phoned mini and spoke with the service department manager, who advised me that as your mini was a cooper S it would require more oil fill up??s than your typical mini, so as a novice I believed this to be true, I continue to just top the mini up every time the light came on and check it on week intervals for it??s oil level.
I found my self checking the oil levels every week, and filling up the mini every 4 to 6 weeks with 1-2 litres of oil.? This settle for a while until the 15.6.10 when again the service light came on during transit. (Mini service report :24.03.10 )
while my wife was on her way to work, so she called out the mini emergency service.
?
A technician Mr Gary Lynch : ID SV25BC attended and? advised replacing again the cam shaft senor,(This was replace the 1st time on the 24.3.10? with the statement that a fault had occurred due to the lack of oil).
He than filled up the oil again with 3-4 litres of oil which my wife was advised of. My wife explained to him what had historically happen with her mini, which he replied to?? I can,t believe that a car can be sold from new and have not been check for it??s oil levels and sent out empty. She was told to drive slowly and get it back to the garage. We than proceeded to book the mini in for investigation.?
Again the mini was taken in for investigation with the following fault being diagnosed. 23.6.10
?
On the 19.10.10 we had to bring in the car again for the same reason,? the camshaft senor was? at fault, with engine oil levels down by 2.5 litres, refilled with 205 litres and was charged for the oil as well.? Below is a history register of events with visits to the main dealer. All the time myself and my wife have been advised that at no time has damage been done to the minis engine.
Now it,s the 8.5.2012 some 8 weeks after a? service and oil fill up at mini, my wife has advised me again the? car sounds and feel terrible, engine sound rough , loud, so again I check the oil tonight with no signs of any oil on the dip stick. So tomorrow morning my wife will be booking the mini in for further investigations.
I do feel now that my patients have been exhausted, so I have taken professional advise from 2 other garages about my situation and will be seeking legal advise based on the response of mini back to me.
?
I would like the car replace with an identical mini Camden, as I feel that I have been completely miss led by mini, and this engine has been completely damage due to the 1st incident on the 24.3.10 .
I think you have been totally complacent in your advise to me and action within your investigation , the mini should have been taken back and replaced after the 1st incident of being sent out of the factory with no oil in it, being driven in this condition for some 4542 mile record on it. ( under the sale of good act and duty of care) This is totally inexcusable from a company such as yours. I feel completely let down by MINI.? I expect my wife to be given a courtesy? mini immediately? while you find a new replacement car.? Please advise immediately.?
?
Historical report
?
Technician report:
Date 24.03.10
Account no C0002
Document no : 37119413
Job no : 83879
Mileage :4542
?
Inlet camshaft senor faulty due to oil levels low. Oil level not set correctly from factory.
I immediately ask has this cause any damage to the engine, but was told no. No damage was caused. I ask why with a new car should it be sent out without any oil in it, we where told the fault is down the the factory sending out this way. So why was it not check prior to exchange funds with me.
?
Technician report:
Date 15.6.10
BMW Group
Emergency service Report
file no 11082868
?
Again the cam shaft sensor was replaced. Part no 13627570191
Mileage : 3866 ?
?
23.6.10
?
mini taken in and? cam senor replace and oil filled up again.We do not have a copy of this mini investigation but I am sure it is on record at the garage or on the system.
I called? mini and? I was told that the mini cooper S naturally use more oil than your typical car because it is a sports car. We have had this mini since the 19.12.09 .
?
Technician report:
Serviced on the 4.5.11.
Account no C0002
Document no : 37151370
Job no : 0
Mileage :11247
?
Technician report:
24.11.2011
Serviced on the 4 .5.11.
Account no C0002
Document no : 37168784
Job no : 0
Mileage :16180
?
Minor repairs
?
Technician report:
01.03.12
Serviced on the 01.03.12
Account no C0002
Document no : 37176978
Job no : 0
Mileage :18456
?
Oil levels not on dip stick. Filled up with oil again.
?
jacqui May 15, 2012 at 2:42 am

Interesting article. I bought a 2nd hand mini r56 cooper s from a car yard (not mini distributer) only may last year. It has always had a rattle – but I was told that’s the noise they make. I noticed last week the noise was very loud and clanky, I rang bmw to book in a service – I explained the sound and what the engine was doing – loss of power – had to ride the clutch – stalling – etc. I was informed to bring it in on the friday – earliest time. Not once did the “specialists” inform me to not drive the vehicle – funny as this is a known issue (now I know this). On the day before the service the car stopped in peak hour and was dangerous where it cut out. Car was towed to bmw – advised it was timing chain (took 4 hrs to diagnose this and 10 mins for me to google this) – 2500 later I was facing a very expensive fix for something “known” as a design flaw by bmw. I complained and have received a “partial goodwill” payment – this is disgraceful – it should be a free fix and a national (and international) recall. Shame on you bmw for ruining a fabulous car brand history
Ralph Crevoisier September 11, 2012 at 9:37 pm

Timing tensioner failure on 08 R56 @ 44K miles. Mini of San Antonio would not cover repair stating out of warranty.
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Mark Crowley November 9, 2012 at 3:13 pm

2009 Mini Cooper S, stretched timing chain at 12,800 miles. Dealer replaced with new parts (chain, tensioner, gears, guides). has been running perfectly since the repair (knock on wood). I am now concerned that this might repeat again after more significant wear (like around 50K to 75K miles) when the car is out of warranty. Any advice on what can be done to prevent this?
Larry January 28, 2013 at 9:27 pm

My wife and both own 09 Minis and I am getting nervous about getting this done before it becomes a very expensive bill does anyone know if this can be a DIY task for the replacement of the chain and guide or are there specialty things required. What is a expected cost for this service before there is a failure? We do have a highly recommended European specialty shop near by and he has been helpful so far. May plan to get both done soon.

Thanks for any feedback.
pascal February 10, 2013 at 5:33 am

2009 cooper s 42 000km had to change timming chain and tensioner , they said everything ok , but now knocking noise !! have to go back to mini , will see wath they say , i m lucky it still under waranty .
Rufus February 11, 2013 at 11:17 am

I own a Mini Cooper S 2007. The car has only 30,000 miles. Immaculate inside and out. Very noisy rattling engine. Stalling and noisy idle. I was told that these engines run noisy so did not suspect anything especially as the car had been for it’s TLC service and has full service history with dealer. Am hoping not too much damage has been caused as a timing chain problem is suspected though no warning light has appeared. Am appalled after reading on a few forums that this is a known problem BMW will not take responsibilty for. I have already spent
motorcare February 12, 2013 at 1:52 pm

i work in an engine rebuild centre . we are seeing more & more of these coming in every day now … burning oil & timing chain problems … new one is top guide wearing causing metal fillings into engine ” not what you want ” last one causing vanos unit (variable camshaft) to cause a fault code 287d to stop working as relies on oil pressure… not the best from bmw i must say …..
Jd February 16, 2013 at 2:03 am

MCS 08 .. I bought this cooper s for my wife having already owned 2myself one supercharged & a early turbo model …. Well where to start !
At 6months old the car was up to 7,000miles & running as sweet as a nut but getting very very hot to the point where it had warped the bonnet scoop !
Common problem I was told – BMW won’t replace under warranty because there was a broken clip & BMW quoted (could of happened while being cleaned or lent on -Stupid man)
Next fuel pump – replaced (warranty)
Next window sensor failed and they would open on there own ? (Replaced warranty )
Next pitted alloy wheel due to salt & dirt getting in under the lacquer (BMW won’t replace because they say it was caused by a strong wheel cleaning agent ? Other 3 wheels are fine ? )
Then the big one … Driving the car one Sunday & could smell oil so pulled over to roadside & lifted the bonnet to find oil all over the engine called BMW warranty assist got the car recovered back to sytners & was told a car would be delivered to our address within 2hrs from hertz rental .. 2days later get a call to say it’s going into workshop. Next day a call from the dealer to say they have stripped the engine down and found that the -Turbo had failed sucked all the oil through and flooded the exhaust cat & both would need replacing – under warranty should have it back in 4days waiting for parts.
3days later get a call they have fitted new turbo & cat but engine still not
running right ? Need to do a compression test on the 3rd cylinder ..
Next day a call to say they need to strip the engine again as no compression in 3rd cylinder ?
2days later a call to say a broken piston had scored the inside of 3rd cylinder & now would require a new engine !!!! But we can’t do anything until we have spoken to mini UK
2days later get a call to say mini UK reserve the right to void the warranty due to the car being fitted with a miltek downpipe not an original mini part
It’s now going to cost you
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David March 14, 2013 at 9:53 am

This just happened to me. 68k on my 2009 S. Was running perfectly, never noticed a rattle or anything, but blam, dead car. It’s in the shop right now but it’s definitely looking like the timing chain. This is ridiculous, and something really should be done. :-/
Erik March 27, 2013 at 11:31 am

This happened to me at 79,000 miles. I had the death rattle and rough running. Took it to the dealer – and replaced chain and all related parts. $2100.00. OUCH! The car has run great since then . Now at 115,000. The car has always used 1 liter of oil every 2000 miles. Seems a little high to me. My old Escort ZX2 only used a liter every 5000 miles. And that car has 240,000 miles on it now.
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Clarence April 14, 2013 at 7:30 am

We have a end 2010 MCS LCi(N18) and the car currently has 12,000km. About two months ago we started experiencing this rattle at the engine, difference being it is softer on cold start.

The dealer first changed the tensioner which reduced the noise however did not resolve problem. The current plan is to change the timing chain.

The BMW engineer for AsiaPac viewed the car last week and has no immediate recommendation as apparently there are no records of N18 facing this rattling.
David April 17, 2013 at 7:14 am

’09 Mini Cooper 2.

Sporadic oil leaks which were diagnosed as tensioner arm backing out. When I arrived at the dealership, there was a 5 foot in diameter pool of oil under the car as it sat in the service bay – car had 26k miles on it.

Fast forward a few months, rattling on cold starts so I take it in for service. End result, timing chain replacement exactly as described in earlier posts. Thankfully, due to a friends issues on his ’06 Mini, I had purchased the extended warranty and everything is covered. However, when I asked the service department why a car with only 29k miles would need a timing chain replaced, they said that its becoming more and more common with the S models…never once mentioning the service bulletin or the real issue.
John C April 18, 2013 at 12:04 pm

bought a 2007 used MINI cooper S . 6 months later @ about 45000 miles . the engine blew .. guess what the chain tensioner caused it .. now my car is @ the mechanic – Precisision auto works – Covina Ca. needs a engine rebuilt.
Keith April 22, 2013 at 8:27 pm

Dose anyone know if the 2012 cooper S engines have the same problems, I thought about buying one but may rethink after reading these wwws.
admin April 23, 2013 at 7:48 am

As far as we know, the 2010 and later engines do NOT have this same issue, the tensioner has been upgraded w the current production part.
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Tim May 11, 2013 at 2:19 am

I have just been through the same issue with my Mini R56 (late 2007). Bought the car 2 months ago and the cold start rattling gradually got worse so I googled and came across this site (amongst others). Luckily, I bought the car with a 3rd party 3 month warranty, so no cost to me – but I’m glad I came across this information now, and didn’t leave the problem to get worse! I’m picking the car up later today, so hopefully will get an explanation from Mini as to what fix was applied, and if this will put an end to the rattle for good!
C from Melbourne May 13, 2013 at 8:30 pm

I can’t believe i’m finding this now. I purchased a used 2007 r56 turbo with about 30,000klms and rang BMW to ask about why it was suddenly running so rough and loud when warming up in the mornings, was advised that “it’s just how they are”, but to be sure, bring it in for a service and check etc. Took it to BMW / MINI in Southbank Melbourne city as it was still running real rough. The carried out a full service, no mention of anything out of the ordinary. For the next 4,000klms after the service the car was left to friend whilst I moved interstate, he said that it was running worse and worse to the point where he did not want to drive it anymore and started driving another car. A month or so later I asked him to try and take it to an independent mechanic, the battery was low, so he charged it overnight and tried the next morning. The next morning the car went “Bang”. The car was then towed to an independent mechanic who confirmed the engine was seized. I’ve been so busy with my new child and work that the car is currently sitting there and I feel this is some how not my fault. I can understand if my friend was a hoon and thrashed the car etc, but was is certainly not the case, and the car failed whilst being turned over, not even being driven, not to mention everything i’ve read above sounds scarily familiar. BMW / MINI Australia can’t deny they don’t know about it because as it would be, my new neighbour who just moved in was a BMW technician and confirmed the issue. I’m going to try and resolve this with BMW the best way I can and will post the resolution if I ever get one.
Jimmy May 16, 2013 at 11:56 am

2009 Mini Cooper S 38,000 miles timing chain Failure. Bite me mini.
cory June 12, 2013 at 5:34 am

Got a 2008 r56 cooper s with engine rattle and using oil. Found oil in intake and topping up oil more often,shortly after blown piston.
I rebuilt the engine and replaced pistons and timing chain kit. Engine runs sweat but not happy,lve notice the engine has excessive suckion pressure when taken the oil filler cap of.
After going though checking everything on the engine, i found the pcv valve system in the rocker cover has failed causing oil going in the intake.
I replaced the valve cover its not cheap or the cheaper way to fix is put a pcv valve in the intake hose going to the intake manifold.
After doing all that the engine sounds good and no oil in intake.
Tony C June 30, 2013 at 5:43 am

Interesting ! A Gym friend has same problem at 6000k miles Mini gave her a loan car for weeks ! Now have offered a BIG discount on Next Years mini . Coming out a L. A . Motor show . R56 engine again . Oil had solidified , short runs she is told !! Wonder if the . Sales . Dept mentioned that ? Obviously . B. M. W are ,keen, to help all owners ! Yea Rite
Randy July 11, 2013 at 10:41 am

I have a 2010 MINI and had the same timing chain issue at 45,000. The dealer fixed it under warranty. Now at 56,000 the engine overheated and may need replacing. I love my MINI but their engines are CRAP!
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Randall Leverett September 7, 2013 at 12:27 pm

2008 Cooper S (Turbocharged) 92,000 mile. Our Mini was taken in 3 times to Roadshow BMW/Mini in Memphis for poor idling. They changed the high pressure fuel pump and everything was right. Turbo went out…. mini claims we missed an oil change (two years and 2 oil changes ago)… so they refused to pay. Thankfully extended warranty company paid. ($3500) Afterwards, Mini advised that the rattling noise was stretched timing chain and that the chain/guides would have to be replaced “soon”. But that’s not what they posted in the service history. They said… Customer refuses to check timing chain at this time. What we said was….How much $$ is it to check the timing chain issue…. About $700. They said…if its stretched beyond spec…it’ll be warrantied and it wont cost you anything. I asked…and if its not stretched beyond spec? Well then…We will have to pay the $600 for the privilege of checking it. We said….we don’t have that kind of spare cash right now. Never did they say….you’re engine will implode within days if you don’t check it. Then you’ll be looking at a $6000 motor. Kind of an important piece of information to leave out don’t you think? Didn’t say….don’t drive it.
So 3,000 short miles later….The motor implodes…starting it in the garage. Ext Warranty company now refuses to pay, because of what Roadshow put in the service history…about our “refusal” So we’re stuck with making $700 monthly payments and owing $15.000 on a lawn ornament that needs a $6000 engine.
Ill be rebuilding the motor myself over the winter. Weisco piston set, Ferraro valves/seats and a performance cam. Should cost about $2500 and add another 33hp. But the result will be a Zero Miles-Performance motor. Thinking about having a machine shop make a timing chain guide out of titanium.
Bryan Yu September 17, 2013 at 9:49 am

Bryan,

I truly wish this had gone per plan. However with your warranty and maintenance coverage, time is really the biggest disappointment as I know you wanted your car back for your trip. As mentioned on the phone, because of the part delay, we will be taking care of the additional Enterprise expense while we wait for the part to arrive. I have detailed the main points below from what I shared with you on the phone.

1) Although the spoiler was ordered by VIN# what arrived did not match what was on your car. It appears that the base spoiler that the JCW wing is attached to either comes already painted and attached to the wing, or we need a base Cooper deck lid. We ordered both just in case.
2) When we pulled the car out of the service drive this morning there was a puddle of coolant on the floor. The thermostat is leaking bad and the water pump is showing signs of leaking. I have been assured that on Saturday these items were ok. The excessive heat the past few days could have contributed to the leak. Both of these items are covered by JMA. There is no deductible. The thermostat is on back order from Germany and is expected to arrive in Germany on 09/17/13 however, it shows that we have been billed for some that we ordered so we may get lucky and see one soon. This should also allow us to have MINI pay the Enterprise bill.
3) The valve cover is leaking. I am not taking any chances and am going to parts warranty this as it was replaced about a year ago.
4) The sunroof cassette is broken and should be replaced. More than likely it swelled from the heat, binded and the cable sprocket jumped several teeth. There is a possibility that it can be corrected, but it would only be a temporary fix at best. We presented this to JMA and it was declined. Only the motor is covered. The motor is not the problem.
The cost to replace the cassette is about $2300.00. We would pass along a 15% discount on this.
5) Under the maintenance plan we are replacing his rear brakes. Since Saturday it is now also calling for its brake flush and micro filter so we will perform that service along with a new drive belt.

Please call or write me as your time permits. I will however not be reachable after 7pm tonight. And reachable again Friday 9-3, and back at work Monday at 9am.

Larry Sevrin
General Manager
Mini of Baltimore
410 296 7900
Bryan Yu September 17, 2013 at 10:00 am

I have been to this dealership 8 times this year on a 2008 MCS with less than 28kmiles bought brand new from the MINI dealership in Baltimore, md. My time belt chain has been replaced 4 times and needs another replacement and I have hardly driven the vehicle. The car eat motor oil like fat man eats cake(no offense). I always keep 4 qts of 5w30 oil in the trunk in case I run out of oil which is every month. Each time it’s brought in they say nothing’s wrong and mcs’s just eat oil because of the turbo. What bs, I had a 2002 vw GTI decked out with a mod chip and turbo and it didn’t eat this much oil. Where the hell does it go? I mean really? I just can’t believe I purchased top of the line MCS with all options less the nav and JCW and this is the treatment and the care I get from a car that rarely driven. Now I take the car in for an oil change and they brake my $1k JCW spoiler off that I got when I purchased the car. Says so on the receipt and the service guy told me “I” glued the spoiler on incorrectly. Wtf is this? I can’t tell you how much I loved this MINI and how much I HATE IT NOW! I will trade it in for something else.
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Roman Alano October 4, 2013 at 1:14 pm

Read my recent pissed consumer report….

Update:

It is now October and my car lost power on the highway. It turned out to be another burnt valve. This time when they took a closer look at the cylinder heads they noticed there were cracks in the cylinder head. Cracks that are beyond repair, so I now need a new engine. The total repair cost is going to be $9,600. Mini Cooper USA offered goodwill assistance for 60% of the repair costs, so I’m responsible for $2,500. I just forked out $1,500 in January for machining the cylinder heads. It seems weird that their work isn’t warrantied. I can understand paying for something not associated with the cylinder heads, but since their are cracks in something that they recently serviced. I don’t feel like I should pay. I also feel like all of these problems stemmed from broken parts of the timing chain in the engine. Which they now serviced twice.

Doing a little bit more research online, I noticed that there is currently a class action lawsuit against BMW. Do a google search on the following:

Joshua Skeen, et al. v. BMW of North America LLC, Case No. 13-cv-01531

Anyone in the bay area with similar problems interested in joining a class action lawsuit with me?
Michael Chamberlain October 7, 2013 at 1:52 am

Do not think this only happens to the Cooper S model, I have the 2007 base model and I need not just the timing chain replaced but the inlet cam shaft as well as there is damaged to it, from what I can see and talking to the BMW mechanic the chain has stretched and caused the cams to move around. I had the dealer quote to replace the timing chain as the noise kept getting louder, sent car into get checked six months earlier, no issues with the car I was told. I had a call from the dealer to say I should get the car back late next week, been in the shop since start of last month waiting for parts to come from Germany. In August organised for the car to be repaired, got a phone call ten days later I was told they ordered wrong items. Good service from BMW Australia. At least I was given a loan car after I asked for one. I suppose the best thing is that for the last six weeks I put no milage on the car.
The thing I have learnt from this is that if you rely on the dealer giving you advice it could cost you a lot more in the long run. Also I am getting the oil and filter changed every 5000km (my cost, my peace of mind) as the last time I got the oil changed after the car service light came on it looked like dark runny mud.
I agree with all these issues should not happen to a new car, maybe if we replaced the mini badges with BMW they will take more notice!
Imagine a BMW badged car breaking down, not a good advertisement for them.
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major November 3, 2013 at 8:34 pm

I purchased a 2008 R56 MC this with about 54K miles. The production date of the car 07/08 so it predates some of the corrections they made in th elater production. After driving it a few months I did notice it was using oil, but then I am commuting a 115 miles per day during the week. I check the oil level daily. As a for rattle, there is a noise on cold start that sounds more like valves than a rattle of a timing chain, but I cant be sure.

I am not sure what I am doing about it yet. Luckily I purchased the extended warranty. Is the noise I am hearing likely the timing chain tensioner?
Tony 1987 November 19, 2013 at 4:49 pm

Damn, I’m so mad at myself right now ’cause I’ve bought a MCS (November ’07) from a guy who was really taking care of the car. The car looks like it was yesterday bought. God! I started to hear the rattle to, especially in the morning, I’ve been told that it will consume more oil then usual bit nevermind I can cover the oil, not a big deal. I just need someone to explain me something.. If the guy before me did not want to go to BMW service, because he said that they are thieves, how can I buy the extended warranty and what is needed to be done so that my Mini will run normal again? Please help. Thank You
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Colin P December 29, 2013 at 3:54 pm

Hi fellow mini buffs. I have owned my factory John Cooper Works 2010 for a month now and thought I would share my pain. Firstly the facts. Car has full mini service history and still under TLC service cover. It has 38k on the clock and had the timing chain kit replaced at 26k which included the tensioner guides and chain. Brilliant I thought. This car is a must buy as it’s already been fixed by mini and has full history. I also purchased a warranty frow warranty wise to ease my motoring worries. So this us where I stand now. Car started rattling after three weeks. Booked into mini who diagnosed it as a broken upper guide. Ok so twice is unusual especially given an engine like this should not even need a new chain at 26k. Anyways mini said that as I had a third party warranty they would not cover the cost. Long story short warranty company paid for parts and labour but only at
Bill M January 8, 2014 at 9:39 am

Bought used ’07 R56 December 2012. Just brought into dealer today for other work, was told brake tensioner replacement will be replaced as part of a recall as well as the turbo heat shield. Check with your local dealer.
martin brown January 8, 2014 at 9:57 am

Recent owner to mini having purchased a 2010 factory jcw, well read up in all the cam chain problems, and touch wood not having those issues as yet, do get a noise on cold start which is a short sharp shrill, and allegedly the first resurculation of the oil pump according to MINI,and nothing to worry about ….well they would say that considering they seem to bury their heads in the sand regarding the huge numbers of N14 engine’s suffering issues with cam chain tensioners (3 revisions of tensioner as far as I’m aware) and the high pressure fuel pump failures, now BMW are taking differing views on these matters depending on where you are in the world, and I guess the fact that a class action law suit was taken out against them in the USA, letters are being sent out to owners in the states (copies of which have been posted on the net) asking owners to take the cars in for inspection ogle the cam chain deflection to see if out of limits, and if so a repair will be carried out, also the fuel pumps are now covered for 12 years or 100k …here in the UK we get no such treatment from BMW, and it stinks that they take such a view on the matter, also the other manufactures who also use the prince N14 engine (Peugeot and Citroen) also have the very same issues, there are literally thousands and thousands of cars out there with the possibility of self destructing, and unless you are an American customer your own your own to suffer the consequences …shame on you BMW, a premium brand of car? I don’t think so!!
Andy February 28, 2014 at 5:50 am

Bought my third Mini in Aus Apr 13, 50k km on clock. March 2010 Cooper S. Rough engine from start with backfiring. Within a week cylinder coil blows and dealer covers cost of repair (80%) as Mini warranty expired just… Runs sweet and have 6 months trouble free (5k km of slow commute in Sydney rush hour). Now engine blowing and cylinder 4 shut down. Air manifold covered in carbon and removed to clean. Previously run chemical cleaners through to avoid labour cost. Cylinder 4 still not firing, low compression. Mechanic will look Into cylinder with tiny camera, if nothing evident, advised cylinder head will need removing to see damage at big cost Aus D 2.5k plus. Suggested carbon debris blocking valve, will find out with camera? Does this sound reasonable. Out of my depth. Need to sell, but gotta fix it up first…
Gokhan March 8, 2014 at 5:49 pm

Hello,
I have a 2009 Mini Cooper S and last week I went to regular service to my dealer. Very next day I started to hear death rattle noise and I made another appointment. Sure enough at first they told me noise normal. Because of my solid requests they excepted to take a look at the car and told me that they were seeing low oil levels. They gave me a loaner car and I was told they were going to keep the car for several days.
Has anyone experienced this? Right after service having this problem does not feel like coincidence.
akio March 10, 2014 at 11:46 am

Great thread. Thanks so much to everyone for taking the time to post their stories- I pretty much have the same situation. Cooper S 2007 R56 Prince. Recently went over the 70000 mile mark, and had oil changed on Jan 22. Checked again and added another 2 qts in 2nd week of Feb. Idiot gauge at “full” or so it appeared. Right after that Father got injured so I became his chauffeur and did not get to check the oil (my fault and I own this) and just yesterday 3/9 car started the death rattles. Getting it taken in to my Mechanic to evaluate. Any thoughts everyone? Buy new engine or do rebuild?
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Hi guys,
Just scanned through the post quickly as I have Mcs r56 56/7 which has just had the all of the above fixes within warranty (how glad am I to have bought it!) To someone above who mentioned if warranty can be bought without buying car from dealers – it can be. Mini do one called mini insured warranty in the UK (not sure where you are)
I brought mine at 4 years old, within 6 months I was back at the dealership with strange start up problems. Over the course of the first year my mcs had been in almost equivalent to once a month. Majority of it was Electricals, sensor, fuel pump issues, then there was the full services, tyre changes and valet etc general things. I could practically live at the dealers… as the following two years ( up to now)
I had to keep taking it in for faults and rattling (they do say it’s supposed to be like that, but having had the above fix i beg to differ, it has for the last month been running quietly and smoothly.)
1 . Turbo sensor – power loss
2 . A Manifold sensor – inlet manifold roar
3 . ECU – Software Updates twice. The last reset deleted my TV software.
4 . Carbon Build up cleaned
5 . Timing Chain – few times it was in. Adjusted and changed and finally last visit it was changed plus
6 . Guides and inner chain – as timing chain had damaged them.
7 . New Start up motor..!
8 . New fuel pump – recall on fuel pump
9 . Catalic Converter
10. New Alternator
11. Oil leak somewhere within the gearbox area. If you have this problem I’d advise to get it checked before it gets expensive.

For all those worried about their rattling Minis, I suggest taking it in to change timing chain And the inner oil pump chain guides. This will take away the rank rattling from the under the bonnet.
If that doesn’t work (as my engine failed to start shortly after, had new starter motor and a load of diagnostic checks. I left the service to deal with it)
Now sounds like a normal turbo car. Other thing is now is the transmissions, I’m not sure if this oil leak has been failing my clutch and gear system?!

This certainly is the fault of BMW for cheaping out on MINI upto 2013 by designing a perfectly brilliant Mini Brand and building with it.. an overflawed novice designed engine.
I have driven that many variants of mini and bmw over the last 2.5 years courtesy of Mini. I still love my R56 S.
LeeJenner April 16, 2014 at 3:15 am

My partner’s 2010 MiniOne, (serviced x3 by main dealer, under TLC which has just expired),it has been burning more oil than usual but we kept topping up until Engine light came on.
I took it to local garage and noticed it was running lumpy, local garage ran diagnostic, came back with fault code 287d vanos actuator and advised I speak to dealer. Searching for this code on internet also brings up explanations around Timing Chain Tension issues, as described on this site – has anyone else had this problem for a non-MCS?
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stevie May 8, 2014 at 3:38 am

hi all 07 r56 well looked after oil changes cam cover etc etc 72k miles last night no warning engine failure.stuck with which way to turn fix it? money pit break it,very dissapointed
john May 12, 2014 at 2:32 pm

Timing chain etc. @51k, was flag under TLC at 44K and they fitted new tensioner, so we paid! Turbo @56K due to oil feed pipe blocked and starved turbo!so much for mini longlife oil! 57K thermostat housing replaced due to water leak!
Worst car ever owned!
costs a fortune to keep hope next owner enjoys now all this works been done.
Heather May 13, 2014 at 3:50 pm

I bought a Mini Cooper S — 2008 not even at 50,000 miles tensioner failed while driving engine blown.

There is a class action law suit in progress because of this issue.
David May 21, 2014 at 2:35 pm

Bought my wife a 2010 Mini Cooper Clubman S with 14 miles on the odometer because she was taking long trips between states and I wanted a reliable car while I deployed to Iraq. At the 12,xxx mark she noticed a lot of noise coming from the engine bay(Timing belt Tensioner.) Took it to Ralph Schomp Mini where they covered it under warranty. After this the car ran well for a time and then factory recall occurred for the water pump. Loved the car however decided to part with the car when the radio started having trouble. Turns out that the radio was tied to the computer. Leaves me standing there with a 4 year old and a 2 year old and now a return trip for the car while they reprogram for 12 hours. Don’t get me wrong they offered a loaner, but hauling my kids 45 minutes from Colorado Springs to Denver than back 45 Minutes to Colorado Springs sounds like I got corn-holed, minus the lube! Especially with the wife out of town and the car under 30,xxx. Traded the car back to them only to have depreciation for factory recall on water pump. WTF!
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john July 17, 2014 at 2:27 pm

Mini now sold! timing chains & guides, turbo, turbo oil feed pipe, Coolant housing, water pump to coolant housing link pipe,cost a fortune and now just done 57K!, hate the car!
Lynn July 26, 2014 at 7:44 pm

MCS R56 07′ auto. Had 2x high pressure fuel pump, 1x timing chain replaced in 2.5 years. Last week coolant leaked, replaced thermostat housing. Immediately, followed by cold start engine stall, took it to two BMW dealer. One dealer told me high pressure fuel pump needs to be replaced again, the other told me pump is fine, but need to replace timing chain. Any suggestions? any reliable MINI mechanic in Melbourne?
peter jones August 10, 2014 at 7:27 am

HI GUYS IVE JUST BOUGHT A MARCH 2013 MINI COOPER S R56 5876 MILES FROM MAIN DEALIER COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME IF THERE ARE ANY CAMBELT OR TENSONIER PROBLEMS WITH THIS MODEL ANYONE CAN TELL ME THE BEST ENGINE OIL TO USE I TOTALLY DISAGREEWITH THE LONG OIL CHANGES IT IS TOTALLY WRONG OF BMW TO DO THIS I THINK THE OIL SHOULD BE CHANGED EVERY 6 MONTHS TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE ,
peter jones August 10, 2014 at 7:52 am

BMW NEED TO GET THERE FACKS RIGHT ON THE OIL CHANGES EVEN THE TLC PACK IS A LAUGH EVERY TWO YEARS OIL CHANGES I LAUGH AT THE DEALIER AND SAID IT IS WRONG I WOULD BE WILLING TO PAY FOR MY OIL CHANGED EVERY SIX MONTHS HE SAID THAT MIGHT INVALERDATE YOUR WARRANTY I SAID WHAT ARE YOU TAKEING THE P IAM WILLING TO PAY YOU BMW TO DO MY OIL FILTER CHANGE AND BECAUSE I AM DOING IT SOONER THAN WHAT THE SERVICE BOOK SAY IE 2 YEARS WHICH MINE WILL BE BECAUSE I DO LOW MILES AND THE OIL SENSIOR WHICH TELLS YOU YOUR OIL NEED CHANGEING IS RUBBISH ITS TOTALLY RUBBISH IN MY AP,WHAT ARE BMW DOING THEM POOR MINI OWNER WITCH TRUST BMW HAVE BEEN LET DOWN WITH PROBLEM IE; WITH CAMBELT TENSIONERS ,NOW BMW COME ON GET YOUR ACT RIGHT HELP THESE OWNERS, AND GET THERE TRUST BACK BECAUSE ;THAT WHAT SELL CARS AS WELL,THANKYOU .PETER J.
Marty August 12, 2014 at 7:42 pm

09 R56 MCS – First timing chain + tensionner change at about 35K, now at just 55K needs another full repair of that kind according to Prestige Mini in North NJ. Of course they declined to cover the repair as the first repair is no longer warrantied. A timing chain / tensionner every 20K – Hey Mini Engineers ( yes you with the C- average), just put a timing belt to make it more reliable! The dealership (Prestige) is not that great and generally clueless but clearly it’s not their fault as this is a design flaw.
bruce August 16, 2014 at 8:24 am

This car / model is NOT known to have the prior timing tensioner issue.
Best oil to use is the BMW / MINI / Castrol 5w30 full synthetic (can get from us or any MINI dealer)
Oil change interval should be one year, or 7,500 miles.
Hope that helps, thanks for posting on our www.

Bruce
BRracing
peter jones September 1, 2014 at 2:28 pm

thanks bruce for the infor p jones
Ray Torres November 21, 2014 at 5:52 am

2007 R56- Purchased three weeks ago with 58k miles and a 3 month 3k mile limited warranty. Car ran great for the first two weeks then I started to hear a rattle coming from the engine when the engine was cold. A quick google search and I quickly learned that it was the timing chain so I stopped driving the car and called the dealer. After two weeks of incompetence from the dealer I purchased the car from (GM Dealer), the car is at Prestige Mini in North Jersey being diagnosed. They have to measure the chain and send that info to the warranty company so that they can determine weather to cover the repair or not…fingers crossed.
Wayne January 7, 2015 at 8:15 am

We own a 2009 MINI Cooper S which 5 months ago suffered a problem with the Timing Chain Tensioner which failed resulting in parts falling into the sump, thus requiring lots of hours cleaning it out. Contacted BMW UK to see if they would offer a Goodwill Gesture as the car was only 5 years old at the time with 35000 miles on the clock. Always checked weekly and always serviced through the BMW Dealership when it’s service was required. Thought this would also help our cause (wrong), made no difference at all. I was in communication with BMW UK through emails, writing and telephone over the five months who continued to tell me that they would not contribute due to the cars age and mileage??
I wrote to BMW UK’s General Manager who put me back in touch with the same customer services staff who had refused in the first place. I sent a second letter to the General Manager but got no response. I called to speak to the BMW General Manager but was tols by the customer services manager that he did not speak to the General Public the was her job and she had reviewed my case eight times and as a gesture could offer me around
Wayne January 8, 2015 at 8:50 am

If you live in the United Kingdom you can contact the Driver Safety Branch vsb@vosa.gov.uk

If it can be proved that this problem with the MINI Timing Chain Tensioner can or has failed without prior warning then their is a chance that this can be investigated further, so if anyone has any experiences like this just email the above address.

If anyone wants to read up on this download the Consumers guide to Vehicle Safety Defects.

The more voices the more chance of action.
DanRad January 14, 2015 at 6:03 pm

Hi, I bought a used 08 MCS about a year ago with 105,000 miles on it (not sure exactly on the mileage I’d have to look up my records) Anyways the car had the rattle since the day after I bought it, unfortunately I was also told by multiple people “that’s just how they are” and the terrible thing that I’m coming to find out is that they are all like this but it’s not a good thing and apperently fixable, though I am curious as to what extent, is replacing half your timing gonna be a 50k mile maintenance after I fix this? Anyways back on topic, a month or so after I bought the car I started it up one morning and while it was idling and warming up I heard a not loud but definitely audible “ting” and then it started idling real rough, I immediately shut it off and had to find other means to work, after I got home researched the problem and found alot of info about this tensioner. Now as a rule I’m the only person that works on my car until it’s outta my fairly small but wide capabilities then I find someone who can do it and then I fix it with them, usually in exchange for beer or money haha. But It came with a 12,000 mile warranty and I had only put a few thousand on it so far so I sent it in, which was a horrible experience (it wasn’t mini or anything, pretty much just some random crappy shop) and after a month they found out a timing sensor was bad and they replaced it (and only it) so idling fine again but still has the rattle which I found out in my previous research
DanRad January 14, 2015 at 6:29 pm

Oops accidently hit post haha. Anyways I get the car back and I’m armed with the knowledge that more work is to be done but I didn’t have the money (due to losing my job) and I knew the crappy warranty wasn’t about to cover “preventative maintenance” I was stuck with it the way it was, I had enough cash to do an oil change and wait it out, however as I’m doing that I notice I’ve only got 2qts of oil in the motor “crap those mechanics are terrible” top my baby off and don’t think twice (dumb move) before I go on let me say, the first place I have heard anywhere of burning/losing oil because of this issue was in a comment on this post THANK YOU SO MUCH PERSON WHO POSTED THAT! :D anyways I digress yet again, about a month later I am parking my car and “ding” low oil light and when I check I’m not even on the dipstick “crap” about 2qts later she’s good to go, and whoa no rattle, a few weeks later after checking oil everyday, I’m another qt low and the rattle is quiet but there, anyways this goes on for months till now, I’ve been working again for a while and I can afford barely anything (I’m happy this car gets 30mpg cus what I spend in oil is horrendous haha) I need advice I guess, at this point would it be worth it to do a total rebuild? I’m somewhere around 120k miles now, I’m almost ready to get rid of the car and go 90’s honda with a new motor or something route, but I freaking love my mini :'( but I’m also not wealthy by any means. Anyways sorry for the Long post but I dunno what to do and I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction, I own or have access to all the tools and can do the work but I don’t want to just spend thousands of dollars on parts and hours of time just to have a 120k motor that finally dosent rattle and who knows what’s gonna go wrong now I have no clue how the previous 100k miles were but the interior and exterior is really nice barely worn at all and the motor is clean and as far as I can tell (and I check) has never leaked a drop of oil. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Graziano Mancini January 16, 2015 at 1:18 pm

I have an r56 from 2007 here in Italy. 7 years have gone about 100.000 km.
I had the following replacement

A lambda sensor (Yellow engine alert) at 10000 km

B rear wheel arc locary (destroyed by sand) at 12000 km

C High pressure pump (the car during a long travel had an error going only at 1000 rpm untile stopped and after restart went ok buy service adviced to replace for safety reasons at 50000km

D Chain tensioner and rails at 55000 km (horrible noise and bad engine run)

E head cover since oil leaked at 60000 km

G Temperature sensor since starting bad at cold at 65000 km

H Injectors since were burnt by turbo high temperatures at 70000 km

F From 60000 km the car eats 1 lt of oil for 1000 miles.

H sliding contacts on steering colums below airbag gave an error on airbag (about 1000 usd )

I rear tyre destroyed in 10000 km due to bad shock absorbers at 75000km

L all absorbers with brake discs and pads at 80000 km and some ball joint of suspensions components

The car was serviced always as requested having brake pads / filters / and tyres replaced when out of standards.

The car if well cared is performing fine. It’s a delicate engine the only very bad problem is the oil consumption they if not cared can destroy the engine and the timing belt tensioner that MUST be replaced. The ridiculous is the the R56 engine was defined the best engine of 2006 but the defect in the project is terrific. The oil circuit put oil in highest pressure in the head and the oil goes burnt by the turbo. In this way about 50% of the oil goes away vaporized. At the beginning user not appreciate it since in all service MINI are instructed to not notify to Clients how much oil they are putting in the engine at each service. Knowing this problem they altered the service manual oil consumption to highest values so no complaint can be made about it. In fact the new mini after only 7 years has a totally new engine. In automotive environment this is a suicide for its costs. An engine upgraded survives at least 2 or 3 car model generations.
BK March 18, 2015 at 3:51 pm

This is a real issue, and it needs to be fixed. I took my ’07 MINI Cooper S to stevens creek mini. They were authorized to fix the problem by MINI out of warranty. I was ecstatic over this! Out of warranty! Well unfortunately SC didn’t do a good job, and left a piece in the engine or perhaps re-assembled the engine improperly.

I went around one of my favorite corners, downshifted to second then WRRRROM GRRRRINNNNDD. The car lost all power and stopped running. I clutched in and coasted to safety. Tried starting the car only to hear grinding noise.

Naturally I had the car towed back to mini. They said they “missed a piece” and that got underneath the chain, popped it off the sprocket. Pistons smacked valves, then the rest is history. They claimed the car only bent it’s valves, and the remainder of the engine was undamaged.

Educated readers know that’s complete BS. They only approved the replacement of my valve train, not a complete rebuild of the engine. I ended up just selling the car to their used car department at a loss.

Long story short, make sure you get this fixed FAST, and take it to a reputable shop like brrperformance even if it’s not free. If you love the car it’s worth it.
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brookewood May 4, 2015 at 3:46 pm

Looking to purchase a used 2011 MINI L4 Coupe – can anyone knowledgeable about the timing chain issue tell me how I would know about the tensioner and if it’s the faulty one or not?
Carol August 4, 2015 at 1:32 pm

We bought a 2009 mini clubman coopers with all the trimmings, black leather with white piping and double sunroof car is black with silver on the back. Very nice car and we love driving it. we bought the car at 32,000miles and at 35,000 miles we needed a new clutch, BMW wanted
sheera August 5, 2015 at 3:36 pm

I have a 2009 mini cooper s convertible. It has given me trouble from day one. At 45,000 miles the car died, had been sounding little ratty at start up but there was no warning light. I would have been better to have had a Major accident when it stalled on highway .. Complete engine failure which mini blamed on not using dealer for msintainence or oil changes my car has so many issues it’s always been repaired. I’ve replaced cam sensor. My car smells like wet dog because the trunk door fills with water and saturated interior despite having this looked at by mechanic and auto body. At one point it took in so much water the amplifier under driver seat got wet and brought down all the electronics. Harmon Becker amps are not cheap. I replaced my engine with used engine with 30000 miles. It started sounding ratty after 5,000 miles. Had work done on turbo (not sure what but it was expensive) my timing chain slipped at 12000 miles (12000+30000 total on engine ) it needed rebuild of timing bedside engine had no pressure. Fixed pressure issue and car engine completely failed with no warning two weeks later. My car has done a total of 60000 miles and now needs new engine again I really don’t know what to do I have a big car loan and realistically I’m going to have to park it and buy very cheap car until loan is paid off ..paying insurance and loan payment s for 60,000 mile car that is not diversity is not right. The worst part after doing research the timing tensioner is only a 40 dollar part and may have prevented most of my costly issuers.. My cars always going to smell like a wet dog unless I put the top down. Selling is not an option who in their right mind would buy this piece of junk,I wish I had been a more informative buyer. My goal is took make all other mini owners aware of these issues before they have trouble. I keep a stack of flyers detailing timing issue and resolution and put it on any mini cooper s I see.
Dubsdj August 16, 2015 at 6:02 pm

Bought a 2007 Racing Green cooper s, looks the business except for the fact that in the 4 years I have had it I have had to:
replace rocker cover (Very high oil usage)
replace engine mounts (Knocking sound when accelerating in first gear)
replace timing chain tensioner (Tractor sound)
replace low pressure fuel pump (Engine management light when low on fuel)
replace high pressure fuel pump (car stalling when in traffic)
clean out carbon
replace water pump twice (Coolant disappearing)
high oil usage always had been. Have had it checked multiple times and told no major leaks
now have been told my timing tensioner is sweating, no urgency but will need replacing again! Car sounds rough if I park it on a slight slope but fine when warmed up.

This car is the most problematic car I have ever owned yet I still love it dearly and don’t want to sell it however my patience is getting very tested. I have spent a fortune on fixing this car and I only do very few miles in it. Very poor engineering from BMW.
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clodgy@gmail.com October 26, 2015 at 2:06 am

I am really glad to have found this discussion forum as I’m very angry at the moment!

I have a 2007 (57) Mini Cooper, 50k miles FSH. Had a couple of stalling at idle issues over the past year. First time it happened, 12 months ago we checked the oil which seemed very low so topped it up and everything was fine again. Stalling happened again about 6 months later so I got the AA out. They checked it over, ‘reset a computer glitch’ AND said the oil was very low! This really confused me as I’d done about 2k miles since we’d last filled it up. Everything was fine again, I took it for a service/MOT with Mini dealership in September and no problems. Then, last Friday the car started stalling as I was driving along. I got the AA out but they couldn’t find a fault. They took it to my local garage (non-Mini) who took the engine apart, checked the fuel pump etc, but they couldn’t find a fault either and said my only option it to take it to a mini dealership. I really don’t want to do this as the car is 8 years old, I’d decided to get everything done by my local mechanic in the future. However, it looks like I have no choice but to take it to Mini (I will have to pay to get it towed over there (20 miles away). This is really annoying and frustrating and I am very angry that it appears to be a manufacturer’s problem. I will also contact vsb@vosa. Wish me luck.
Larry November 5, 2015 at 9:17 pm

I wish I had seen this article two weeks ago. I bought a 2007 Mini S new. Within a year the tensioner was changed when the car began to run poorly. Last Tuesday the engine began to knock very loudly and within two minutes it died. I had it towed to the Mini dealer who diagnosed the tensioner issue. It disintegrated and fell into the pan. I was told that valves were bent and the engine was toast. They gave me a quote of $8,800 to fix my car, now worth about $7,000 in Kelley Blue Book. I love the car but it’s not worth the expense of fixing it. 64,000 miles and it’s worthless.
gruf January 10, 2016 at 7:46 am

Not sure if this (excellent) thread is still being monitored …
Have a 2010 MCS that’s rattling bad. It has the N18 engine fitted – possibly one of the first ones.

I thought that the timing chain problem was sorted by the time the engine was updated to the 184bhp N18 spec.

Can anyone confirm whether the N18 is at risk too please
admin January 10, 2016 at 2:53 pm

We have not seen any issues w the newer N18 engine.
Still seeing oil consumption issues…and would do the simple check, as the oil level sensor doesn’t often work.

Thanks. Bruce
BRracing
gruf January 11, 2016 at 4:08 pm

Thanks, good to know the N18 engine less prone to this … even if I still have to work out what the rattling is.

Yup, have criminal oil consumption too, 1 litre or more every 1000 miles. Never had an engine drink oil like this before. Would sell the car tbh but the missus loves it. Is more like a 2-stroke.

Our kids Honda never uses a drop in 12,500 miles and she used to drive it properly hard too, even my last RS5 would barely use 0.5l in 15,000 miles and that was an 8250rpm V8!

Any commmon causes of high oil consumption with these N18 engines please?
admin January 15, 2016 at 8:59 am

The two main causes of the high oil consumption are the normal elements:
valve stem guide seal wear
oil piston ring wear
You can test which of these it is more likely the cause…by testing the crankcase pressure
gruf January 16, 2016 at 1:18 pm

guessed it couldn’t be much else … on a 30,000 mile engine though! Depressing.
Thanks for the advice.
Bryan Smith February 1, 2016 at 1:45 pm

I bought my 2007 Mini Cooper S turbo 1.6L R56 N14 engine back in August and noticed right away a weird sound coming from the front left of the motor area and the mechanic I bought the car from said that it was just tire noise and didn’t bother taking it in the garage. Low and behold it threw my car into limp mode with the car on the lift symbol. I had 8 bent valves and timing chain guides were all messed up. There was no compression in any of the cylinders. I had the cylinder head rebuilt and bought all new gaskets and put the engine back together and set the timing yet still no luck so now I’m out even more money than what I was to begin with.
J February 16, 2016 at 9:17 am

2010 R55 Clubman N16 engine – I have intermittent stalling at idle & an independent garage tells me there is a diagnostic in the ECU – 2845 VANOS exhaust actuator movement – although no error light.

Are the N16 engines affected by the timing chain issues too? Or is this likely something else?
admin February 27, 2016 at 7:04 am

Not affected by the timing chain issue that everyone saw in the early years of the R56.
But the code sounds like a VANOS issue, which does occur in your engine.
Bruce
J February 29, 2016 at 5:14 am

Thanks Bruce, I also get a P0015 B Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1), so I replaced Camshaft Position Sensors as recommended on some other forums. If that doesn’t fix it I’ll go for the VANOS Solenoid..
J April 9, 2016 at 1:50 am

Just an update on my issue, it was fixed with the replacement of the VANOS Solenoid.
Janice April 22, 2016 at 12:21 am

Ive just purchased privately a 2009 minicooper s. Had 2 test drives & found the car to be perfect, only bought it on Monday but Im noticing its not running properly when stationory & it has backfired a few times. Also the engine hood seems to be very hot after a run. Any ideas please?
Merry April 25, 2016 at 8:18 pm

2010 Clubman JCW… Took it for a long drive (90 miles/each way) with a 4 hour stopover, on Saturday. The car sat on Sunday. Today, started with an obvious rattle. Took a different car to run errands, came back and conferred with service tech at Mini dealership. Rattle stops when clutch is pushed in, but comes back when let out. Also running rough, which seems to even out when revving up but comes back when car returns to idle. I did not drive it! I’ve read too many horror stories. I am the 2nd owner, bought in 2015 with 7500 miles, was supposedly a 2-mile commute daily driver… had to replace clutch at 14,500 miles but did my research before taking it in and wouldn’t take no as an answer from Mini Corporate, so got most of the work done as a courtesy comp. I need to go back in equally well-informed. This car was built in 10/09, delivered in 2010. How do I find out what engine it has? Some sites say N14/N16, others say N18. I’m not a mechanic, just someone who does their research. Though I obviously wasn’t looking in the right places when I did my initial research before buying! Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.
Merry April 25, 2016 at 8:20 pm

Forgot to say, oil change done a couple thousand miles early, end of March, when alignment done due to the unusual wear on previous run flats. Hate those, never again! Clear inspection elsewise, and the oil level is fine.
Merry April 26, 2016 at 10:03 pm

Nevermind all those questions, today I towed the car to the dealership. and the service tech informed me that they’d found the timing chain had gone bad, more details tomorrow.

I’ve gotten a notification of the tensioner class action settlement, and have til June to make a claim, but here’s where my questions start: My understanding is that this a Prince engine design flaw, with the chain being internal to the engine case, and that failure can happen at any time, no matter how well one maintains their vehicle. I have followed all guidelines, and exceeded them, but still have had both the clutch and now the timing chain go out. If this re-occurs after October, any extended warranty will be gone, as the car will have be in service for 7 years. I also don’t see any accommodations for re-occurrence of the failure or a fix for the faulty design. So this can happen again, and from what I’ve read, is likely. Here’s the question: does the N18 engine design take care of these flaws, and is it possible to put one in my car? Unclear to me if the design was intended to fit the pre-revision cars.

Any info greatly appreciated!
Cheers!
Car Accident Repair Woes | Good Info Car Accident Laws May 18, 2016 at 3:09 am

[…] Mini Cooper S R56 – engine woes – BR Racing Blog – SERVICE Alert. If you own, or know someone who owns a MINI Cooper S (R56) car, from 2006.5 to 2011, read on with great interest or concern. With the push to get more … […]
Ricardo Reyes May 20, 2016 at 10:37 am

My wife has a 2010 Cooper S A/T with 54K miles and started with a heavy oil leak from the chain tensioner, we have to replace it (it was not tight properly), then she drove over a piece of a truck tire and broke the auxiliary pump that we replaced (pain in the neck)
Today started a heavy leak of coolant from the passenger side that I don’t know yet from where is coming. We are out of town and I will carry on a AAA truck, What do you think would be the cause of the leak?, I will appreciate your help
Jan June 13, 2016 at 12:34 pm

I have a 2011 mini cooper s all 4, 23500 miles on clock.same thing, engine warning light on. sounds like diesel engine but its petrol, contacted AA who took it to local BMW specialist garage who have had it for a week, found out today its the fuel pump which I have been told is what probably is causing this problem but reading forums this then leads to chain tensioner? I think its terrible, car fuel pump should last time of car, the warranty in America has been extended from what I can gather until 120,000 on clock why not in UK!?, why is nothing ever don here, am so sick and tired of being ripped off, have contacted Harold Krueger who is CEO I believe. Also lad earlier onsaid her is a current court case? More details please, thank you
Tamer November 2, 2016 at 9:36 am

Hi all
I cant believe that at 23k miles my beloved Mini Cooper Clubman had fault code 2845 VANOS ACTUATOR MOVEMENT, OR P0015 ON P CODES. The car start up engine lumpy and out of synch as if it misfires. This will happen at idle. I reached out for the dealer and they said timing was out and vanos was not working properly.
On further testing; there is no fault on the vanos actuator (which is the timing cog on the exhaust cam) there is no fault on any electrical components, there is a big fault in design of the cam system. For the vanos PROPERLY to work on this engine oil pressure is key, the problem is feeding oil to the exhaust VANOS. The dealer stated that there is minor wear on the cam carrier cap, which causes the bearing seal to fail, thus causing the fault code. I cannot believe that at such low mileage I was advised to BUY A NEW CYLINDER HEAD. A side note; the PEUGEOT 207 (French Car) HAS THE SAME ENGINE SAME PROBLEMS. MINI does not want man-up to this problem. I will never Trust a mini EVER!
Miguel Furlong January 5, 2017 at 5:12 pm

SADLY I OWN A 2009 MINI S AND SUDDENLY STARTED TO MAKE RATTLE NOISES. I ALREADY SPENT 1000 DOLLARS IN REPAIRS. NEW TIMING CHAIN KIT AND OIL PUM CHAIN. THIS REDUCED THE NOISE BUT NOT COMPLETELY. MECHANIC TOLD ME THERE’S NOTHING ELSE TO DO. 45K MILES AND EXPECTING ONE OF THESE DAYS CAR IS GOING TO BREAK.
John Hillyer January 19, 2017 at 8:13 pm

Does anyone know if some clever person has reproduced a robust N12 B16A (2007 Mini Cooper) timing chain tensioner ?
Nelson Prince February 2, 2017 at 9:25 pm

Is this only with the S or does the non S also have the issue with the Prince engine?
Chuck March 2, 2017 at 3:36 pm

We timing chain issues all the time. VANOS codes are cropping up more and more as these engines wear. The latest one had bad exhaust cam seals causing the VANOS code. The warranty on the High Pressure Fuel Pump has been extended to beyond the 2009 models to include 2010, 2011 and 2012. I have seen nothing issued by Mini on this but several of my customers got them covered after calling MINI.
Donna Blik March 16, 2017 at 7:49 am

I just had my 2010 Mini Cooper S towed into the shop last night. Called this morning and there is no compression in the engine. Seems like last year and this year will be the year to poor money into this car, first the water pump,Serpentine belt and then a some sensor thing, now this. I have read of the loud tapping noise above and mine has had that, but I have taken it in to have all my service done at my mini dealer and they have never said anything about this being a problem, call me stupid but shouldn’t they say hey, that noise there is an issue and we need to check it out? They tell me when it’s low on oil and when they feel the tires need to be changed. I have had then just go over it and do a “wellness” check if you will just before the winter, wouldn’t this have been a cause for concern for them?
Donna Blik March 16, 2017 at 7:51 am

Oh and in addition to my previous comment, It has just over 40k on it. I bought it new in 2010.
admin April 2, 2017 at 4:29 pm

If the fault was indeed related to the timing chain / timing chain tensioner issue, then, yes, they should have been able to validate that when the car was in for service. There is a very well defined set of traits / noises that are the tell tale signs of these issues. Sorry for your issues.
Sunil May 25, 2017 at 3:10 pm

2010 mini cooper s with rattling noise on startup for 5 – 10 mins. I debated that the http://www.timingchaintensionersettlement.com/ should cover it , however the 2010 model is not listed in settlement. So I asked them it’s the same engine(N14) & engine parts and should not matter whether the car was assembled in 2009 or 2010. So the dealer agent has requested the manufacturer to cover it.
The bill is upwards of 4000$. I will update if the manufacturer agrees to cover it.
Sunil May 26, 2017 at 12:13 pm

So the mini has agreed to do pay 75% and asked me to cover 25%. For now I asked the dealer to proceed with this deal. However I’m willing to purse legal options to get 25% back. If any of you has 2010 mini cooper s rattle noise and are looking for legal options , stay connected with me. My email is cyborgt8.cyborgt8@gmail.com This is my secondary email.
Kim June 16, 2017 at 5:40 pm

Just wanted to add to the list of unhappy Mini Cooper s owners. Mine is a 2008 model covered 46,000 and is BMW garage now. Timing tensioners have snapped costing just over £1,000 so far, still not fixed so costs just keep going up. BMW UK not interested poor customer service. In America BMW have settled customers claims what is happening to all the minis affected in UK
Thanks for any advice you can give
Melinda June 20, 2017 at 9:21 pm

We have recently experienced the same issue, unfortunately new engine needed at a cost of $7K and told by the mechanic to get rid of the car. We have only had the car 6 months paid $15K for the car with less than 50000 KLMs. Mini Australia have the same attitude and issue was even the cost at BMW to have the issue diagnosed at $1800 before Mini were even will to discuss GW. The car has log books stamped by BMW and always serviced regularly with correct spec oil. My issue is after repairing we now need to off load incase it happens again!
Takis July 8, 2017 at 9:27 am

My mini r56s from 60k gradually deteriorated and now 100k needs a kilo of oil per thousand km and when trying to accelarate looses power. Suggestions, rebuilt or change engine block? How i know the status of the next used engine? Or buy a new one?
admin July 9, 2017 at 1:32 pm

Sorry for your results w the MINI engine. We have moved most of our customers to another used engine, as that seems the best value, economically. We have had much better luck w the used engine, upgrading a few of the parts before going in, and also changing the type of oil used (we no longer use BMW / MINI full syn oil, we have moved to using Motul 8100x-cess full synthetic in all our customers cars). Good luck.
SEAN CARNEY October 11, 2017 at 8:39 am

I HAVE A 2010 MINI COOPER S 59K MILES ON IT , COMPLETE SERVICE RECORDS AND JUST OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP ENGINE BLOWN, NO WARNINGS NOTHING……WTF
enea November 7, 2017 at 7:40 am

From what i read here from all you lovely people’s comments, it makes me feel lucky that our mini has survived for 10 years. obviously not without frequent visits to the dealership mechanic and outside of it. But right now the timing chain issue has affected my N18 engine of my 2009 mini cooperS. And just as someone stated in this comments already, it was preceded by a failed high pressure fuel pump. It makes me mad that this amazing car has so many design problems only because of the early success Mini had and having to scramble to meet consumers demand for production. I remember when we ordered our Mini it took 7-8 months to arrive fresh of the boat. Anyway now the mini even though kept shiny looking on the exterior , the interior under the hood its a crying mess. mind you its all off warranty and the parts aren’t cheap. I didn’t mention that it burns a ton of oil which from what some one. now all i can think of doing is get rid of the car which is probably worth not even $2000. Good luck to all
Larry December 18, 2017 at 9:54 am

Purchased 2007 mini cooper s with 116K miles and have had low oil pressure(starts at 40 psi and drops to 5psi when hot). Changed to a dealer oil filter, replaced oil pump, checked and cleaned oil system solenoid valve and check valve. Oil pressure does not change much with engine speed. Rod bearing feel snug but may be the next replacement project. Suggestions?
Thanks.
Scott January 4, 2018 at 9:52 am

2011 MCCS with the N18 engine. I fix my own vehicles. Mine presented with oil in the water. Gallons and gallons of water. As fast as I filled the radiator, the oil pan took it all in. Pulled the head, changed the undamaged head gasket, installed ARP head studs with thread seal. Buttoned it back up and still had a massive water leak into the crankcase. PROBLEM: Freeze plug in the dead center of the “lifter valley” was missing. Looks like a normal oil passage or head bolt hole. Purchased a new aluminum freeze plug from the dealer – found out it was a piece of junk and would pop out again the next time I did not properly bleed the thermostat housing. SOLUTION: I machined up a threaded aluminum plug; threaded the hole; torqued it down with epoxy in the threads. WARNING TO CONSUMERS: Customer should pull the valve cover and look for that freeze plug (or missing freeze plug). Procedure: Pull the VC and start adding water to the radiator overflow tank. If you see water moving amongst the valve springs, follow the water flow to the (missing) freeze plug.
The presented problem was water in the oil, which usually means that the head gasket is blown, or the “engine is blown”; or the valve cover is bad. A mech can tell any story to the customer and they will be forced to believe it. After the customer agrees to a massive repair bill, the mech fixes the freeze plug in 10 minutes and pockets a huge profit.
Other problems with water in the oil: The oil pump cannot move aerated oil (whipped chocolate milk). The French “fuel efficient” oil pump has an electric solenoid inside that is fitted with a fine screen that won’t allow aerated oil to pass. These parts must be flushed/cleaned: Timing chain tensioner, oil pump; turbo oil lines and turbo oil passage, oil pan, water pumps; possibly the turbo air pipes. After reassembly, must change oil&filter after 5 minutes of running, then change again after 10 minutes of running. Change the water at least twice. This extra work is easily 5 hrs labor and $200 in oil/misc. A shadetree mech can do this work.
wendy January 23, 2018 at 7:28 pm

2009 mini cooper s
89k miles
replaced fuel pump under warranty 2016

no death rattle yet, but valve cover and gasket replaced, pressure sensor, both upstream and downstream O2 sensors, still pops codes 296a and 2b64, thinking its timing, but hear whirring/hissing sound when clutch is engaged.

im scared to own it after reading this.. plus it was at mini and they never said anything.

idle rich, engine light on, codes 296a and 2b64.

looking for air leak now..

need to unload this money pit fast..
Alex March 15, 2018 at 9:37 am

I have done quite a bit of research on the timing chain issue. (I own three second Gen JCWs, one N14 and 2 N18’s)

I have currently fixed three Cars, one being my own with the following relatively inexpensive fix. Replace the timing chain tensioner ($60 part). (the tensioner failure applies more to the turbo cars than the naturally aspirated ones (N12)).

Here is what is happening with these cars. For various reasons, oil burning, leaks, inability to measure engine oil level correctly or lack of timely oil changes (I recommend oil is changed every 7,000 miles and not wait for the oil change light which can activate with higher mileage which is a generally shared consensus in the community) the engine requires a certain level of oil due to the hydraulic nature of the Vanos system and the hydraulic chain tensioner. The tensioner has an internal spring, and is also boosted by oil pressure. Over time the spring fails or breaks (and makes a lovely crunchy sound when depressed manually) which seems to be aggravated by dirty or low oil. Once the tensioner is weak it allows slack in the chain usually manifesting at initial startup but then as oil pressure builds the engine will quiet down. Over time as the tensioner gets even weaker the engine will start to rattle more. This is due to the chain slapping the plastic chain guides, and mainly the upper guide due to the slack now induced by a weak tensioner. If this isn’t addressed eventually the upper guide will break causing plastic bits to fall into the oil pan and accelerating wear of the other two guides and also causing chain stretch. Chain stretch also occurs with a lack of lubrications or with dirty oil as it causes the chain to wear faster. Once the chain has stretched or worn past a certain point the tensioner can no longer apply the correct amount of tension. The fix for all of that if allowed to get that far is a complete new timing chain cassette… tensioner, chain, sprocket, bolts, guides.

Here is the good news, all of this occurs downstream of a failing tensioner. The current newest version can last 40K, 60K, 80K… it all depends on multiple factors but the biggest one is probably related to frequent oil changes, proper oil level and the type of oil. I use redline synthetic and have for years in many cars. It’s worth the higher price. My old R53 had oil pressure of when it was new at 120,000 miles…I attribute that to the oil and the frequency of changes. Oscar made it to 80,000 miles before I changed his tensioner, and he’s a modified JCW (N14) with 260 hp. So make sure you oil is always at the proper level, and change the oil at no more than 7000 miles, regardless of what the oil service indicator says. But to avoid all the bad stuff that comes after your tensioner starts failing…change the tensioner! It’s a $60 part. Changing one is a lot like changing spark plug. Removing the boost tube is the hardest part to gain access to it, or it can be changed from underneath with a wobble bit or u-joint extension. Every Mini I have fixed by replacing the tensioner was caught early enough to prevent damage, I went a bit further in that I used a tool ($60) from BMW to measure chain stretch confirming the chain was in spec, and pulled the valve cover to inspect the guides, but this is because the cars were already making noise and I wanted to be sure. Most people can accomplish this themselves with simple hand tools and a little mechanical aptitude. (Buy the Bentley Manual, it will pay for itself in short order). But the no brainer part of this fix is change the tensioner before it fails. It’s a $60 part… did I mention its only sixty dollars? So budget that into your maintenance routine. Change the tensioner every two years, that’s $30 a year, plus keep the oil topped up and your car will likely make it to the 100-120K mark before needing the complete timing chain replaced. You can get cheaper versions of the slack measuring tool on Amazon (less than $20 if my memory is correct) which is simple to use and can check for stretch every time you change the tensioner giving you a heads up before a very expensive repair is needed.

So that is the fix I have come up with, that to date has worked on every car I have I have tried it on and I’ll bet it can save all of you a lot of money and grief. Now it would be nice if the Prince engine wasn’t so sensitive to lack of maintenance and oil level and the tensioners were better designed (they are now with the latest versions), but it is what it is. The MINI is still the most fun car I have ever owned, and I love the camaraderie of the MINI community; Like a friend of mine said, “it’s the only car that comes with friends”. But I think most will agree that replacing a $60 par every two years is a small price to pay for keeping your MINI running healthy and strong.
JefSharpe April 17, 2018 at 8:20 pm

I have a 2009 MCS turbo with a bad number 3 cylinder showing zero pressure during compression test. Other 3 showed 90-95 pounds which still seems low. Can this be due to a stuck valve from carbon buildup?
edith thompson August 3, 2018 at 5:11 am

i brought a 2009 mini cooper from NETTO MOTORS in west palm beach,fl.paided $6200.00 dollars cash,the owner told me when they get a vihicle,they go through it with a find tooth comb before they sale them to anybody,but to make a long story short.i had the mini towed to north carolina and about a week later i put insurance on the mini,drove it about 15 miles and oil light came on,i had it towed to a mini dealer and they said the engine was shot and there is no way that they could have not known,i called them and they said-you brought it as is…dont believe nothing these people tell you because they will lie when you confront them.even the mini dealer i carried it to said–these people knew that the engine was damaged in the car,they said there is no way they shouldnt have known,and other words they said the car had been doped up to last for a little while…NETTOMOTORS,be carefull if you buy from them.
Kevin Guy August 20, 2018 at 4:23 am

Hi No compression in cylinder one, added spoonful of oil in to cylinder 1 still no compression, no blue smoke from exhaust pipe when fired up, hardly runs though! cylinders two, three and four are reading approx 145, engine is the N12 1.4cc with approx 90k on the clock, removed valve cover found top chain guide broken no sign of plastic guide, valves appear ok just looking from top not sure about seats etc. Do you think its just the timing out causing the no compression or deeper trouble with valves , seats , guides etc.

Regards
Kevin
admin August 26, 2018 at 2:59 pm

First response would be just timing is off.
But, normally, if timing is off in one cylinder, then all cylinders should be experiencing the same thing.
Good luck. Bruce
pumber to pumber September 4, 2018 at 5:19 am

I went over this website and I think you have a lot of great information, saved to favorites (:.
Colin September 23, 2018 at 1:36 pm

I have just sold my 2005 Cooper S, so fitted with the supercharger, it had 120k miles on the clock and I had replaced the timing chain, followers and tensioner at 80k miles. I regularly changed the oil, fully synthetic and used it as a daily commute,220 miles and several track days. The car never failed and the engine in standard form was a brilliant track day car. Just don’t mention ABS faults.
Julie Devine September 28, 2018 at 2:06 am

Over 11K spent less than 2 years ago for a car that is now worthless.
Mini Countryman 2011 started to make an engine noise / rattle out of the blue taken to dealer who never warned us about this issue and suggested we would be better to buy diesel as would easily go for about 200K! Only done 60k miles! expensive diagnostics and now told 4 k to repair. What a rip off just want it gone now and will never buy Mini again…….
bill November 5, 2018 at 12:26 pm

I feel the pain of those who have experienced timing chain issues and other woes which have been well documented in the r56. However, my ‘08 cooper S (now at 102,000 mi.) has been completely reliable, and I have been fortunate to have dodged the major issues which have been described. At 75,000 miles mini offered to inspect and replace, if needed, the timing chain. I was having no issues, but when the dealer checked it, the chain was “ borderline” and so it was replaced, along with the tensioner and guides, without charge. It was unfortunate that it took a lawsuit and too many years for mini to step up to this problem, but they finally did step up.

From the time I purchased my car I did not believe that minis recommendation of extended oil changes made sense ( and it turned out not to, at least with the Prince engine) . I have changed the oil and filter every 3-5 K miles since new, and I I think that this very important in preventing tensioner, turbo and valve carboning problems.
Also, using Tier 1 gas may be beneficial as well.